[Evidence-based cosmetics: concepts and applications in photoaging of the skin and xerosis.]

Wien Klin Wochenschr. 2009; 121(13-14): 431-9Pavicic T, Steckmeier S, Kerscher M, Korting HCAs well as for topically used dermatological agents, studies performed according to the rules of evidence-based medicine (EBM) are also needed for cosmetics. Although the concept of evidence-based cosmetics has been only partly developed so far, there are some agents and preparations available that can be considered as evidence-based. In this paper we present data from several studies that claim to have examined and demonstrated the efficacy of cosmetic preparations for the management of solar damage and aging skin as well as lentigo and melanosis according to EBM criteria. Certainly, further controlled studies are needed to cover the main application areas of dermocosmetics. Retinol and antioxidant agents such as vitamin C and coenzymes that positively act via several mechanisms on collagen biosynthesis can be considered evidence-based substances for the management of aging skin. According to the same criteria, the preventive effect of regularly applied dermocosmetic sun screens on the development of actinic keratosis could also be shown. Dermocosmetic sun screens should offer adequate protection against UV-B and UV-A light by combining compatible organic and/or non-organic UV-filters and at the same time be well tolerated. Furthermore, they may contain some additional agents such as antioxidants, DNA repair enzymes, dexpanthenol, glycerin or hamamelis distillate. In the treatment of melanosis, a substantial bleaching effect corresponding to that of 0.1% topical tretinoin can be achieved with 10% all-trans-retinol gel. Preparations containing urea, ammonium lactate or glycerol in different concentrations are considered the best characterized and most effective substances for the care of dry skin. However, the lack of controlled studies confirming the efficacy of dermocosmetic products as well as the superiority of the preparation incorporating the active agent over the corresponding base is a problem yet to be solved. Undoubtedly, the efficacy and the sustainability of the achieved effects have to be examined and proven accordingly to EBM criteria in further active cosmetic agents. Moreover, generally accepted guidelines for the examination of efficacy and tolerability of dermocosmetics have to be developed.