Toxicol Ind Health. 2009 May; 25(4-5): 241-7Valacchi G, Pecorelli A, Mencarelli M, Maioli E, Davis PBeta-carotene has been thought to protect against oxidative stress generated by ultraviolet radiation and thus prevents skin cancer and skin aging (Biesalski and Obermueller-Jevic, 2001). However, nothing is known about its potential effects against other environmental sources of oxidative stress such as ozone (O(3)) in skin. Intake of oral beta-carotene supplements before exposure to sunlight (and thus inevitably also to O(3)) has been recommended on a population-wide basis. However, although some studies have shown beta-carotene as providing skin protection as an antioxidant, other studies using skin cells in culture have shown that beta-carotene may have unexpected prooxidant properties (Obermüller-Jevic, et al., 2001). Given this, there is an ongoing debate regarding the protective or potentially harmful role(s) of beta-carotene in human skin. In this study, the effect of beta-carotene on ozone's effects on the skin of hairless mice was assessed. After feeding a diet supplemented with 0.5% beta-carotene for 1 month, mice were subjected to O(3) exposure (0.8 ppm 6 h/day; 7 days) and the induction of proinflammatory markers such as tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNFalpha), macrophage inflammatory protein 2 (MIP2), and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), and markers of oxidative stress, heme-oxygenase-1 (HO-1), were quantitated. The data showed that beta-carotene downregulated the induction of TNFalpha, MIP2, iNOS, and HO-1 in response to O(3). We conclude that beta-carotene provides protection against O(3)-induced skin oxidative stress in vivo, which is consistent with a protective role for beta-carotene in the skin.

Wien Klin Wochenschr. 2009; 121(13-14): 431-9Pavicic T, Steckmeier S, Kerscher M, Korting HCAs well as for topically used dermatological agents, studies performed according to the rules of evidence-based medicine (EBM) are also needed for cosmetics. Although the concept of evidence-based cosmetics has been only partly developed so far, there are some agents and preparations available that can be considered as evidence-based. In this paper we present data from several studies that claim to have examined and demonstrated the efficacy of cosmetic preparations for the management of solar damage and aging skin as well as lentigo and melanosis according to EBM criteria. Certainly, further controlled studies are needed to cover the main application areas of dermocosmetics. Retinol and antioxidant agents such as vitamin C and coenzymes that positively act via several mechanisms on collagen biosynthesis can be considered evidence-based substances for the management of aging skin. According to the same criteria, the preventive effect of regularly applied dermocosmetic sun screens on the development of actinic keratosis could also be shown. Dermocosmetic sun screens should offer adequate protection against UV-B and UV-A light by combining compatible organic and/or non-organic UV-filters and at the same time be well tolerated. Furthermore, they may contain some additional agents such as antioxidants, DNA repair enzymes, dexpanthenol, glycerin or hamamelis distillate. In the treatment of melanosis, a substantial bleaching effect corresponding to that of 0.1% topical tretinoin can be achieved with 10% all-trans-retinol gel. Preparations containing urea, ammonium lactate or glycerol in different concentrations are considered the best characterized and most effective substances for the care of dry skin. However, the lack of controlled studies confirming the efficacy of dermocosmetic products as well as the superiority of the preparation incorporating the active agent over the corresponding base is a problem yet to be solved. Undoubtedly, the efficacy and the sustainability of the achieved effects have to be examined and proven accordingly to EBM criteria in further active cosmetic agents. Moreover, generally accepted guidelines for the examination of efficacy and tolerability of dermocosmetics have to be developed.

Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2009 Jul 31; 22(4): 200-209Bellemère G, Stamatas GN, Bruère V, Bertin C, Issachar N, Oddos TThe antiaging efficacy of retinol (ROL) has been explored mainly clinically in photoprotected skin sites and for high doses of ROL (0.4-1.6%). The objective of the study was to demonstrate the antiaging action of a low and tolerable dose of ROL (0.1%) ex vivo by measuring the expression of cellular retinoic-acid-binding protein II (CRABP2) and heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HBEGF) by a histological evaluation of the epidermis and in vivo by assessing major aging signs and performing three-dimensional profilometry and digital imaging during a 9-month double-blind placebo-controlled study involving 48 volunteers. Finally, epidermal cell proliferation was evaluated using tryptophan fluorescence spectroscopy. Our results demonstrate that 0.1% ROL induced CRABP2 and HBEGF gene expression and increased keratinocyte proliferation and epidermal thickness. In human volunteers, topical application of a ROL-containing product improved all major aging signs assessed in our study (wrinkles under the eyes, fine lines and tone evenness). Moreover, tryptophan fluorescence increased in the active-agent-treated group and not in the placebo-treated group, indicating that cell proliferation was accelerated in vivo. These data demonstrate that a product containing a low dose (0.1%) of ROL promotes keratinocyte proliferation ex vivo and in vivo, induces epidermal thickening ex vivo and alleviates skin aging signs, without any significant adverse reaction.

J Ethnopharmacol. 2009 Jul 18; Hsu MF, Chiang BHETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Radix astragali, a well-known Chinese herb, which has been traditionally used for skincare, and microbial fermentation is one of the conventional methods for processing Chinese herbs. AIM OF THE STUDY: This research studied the effects of non-fermented (HQNB) and fermented preparations (HQB) of Radix astragali on hyaluronic acid (HA) production in primary human skin cells. MATERIALS AND METHODS: HQB and HQNB were prepared and added to the cultures of primary human skin cells. Hyaluronic acid content was determined using ELISA. Real-time RT-PCR was used to evaluate hyaluronan synthase gene expression. The bioactive compounds were analyzed by HPLC. RESULTS: The growth-stimulating effect of HQNB on both of keratinocytes and fibroblasts were significantly higher than that of HQB. Conversely, HQB, but not HQNB significantly stimulated HA production in both cultured primary human epidermal keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts in dose-dependent manners. In addition, HQB markedly and dose-dependently increased the expression of hyaluronan synthase 3 and hyaluronan synthase 2 mRNA in HaCaT cells and human fibroblasts, respectively. Therefore, HQB might be a promising candidate for preventing the age-dependent loss of HA content in aged human skin, and its effect on the enhancement of HA synthesis in skin cells is highly related to its effect on the expression of hyaluronan synthase genes. The three major active isoflavonoids in Radix astragali were identified as ononin, calycosin, and formononetin. After fermentation, all of these three compounds in HQB were significantly reduced. However, HQB still had significantly higher enhancement effect on the production of HA than HQNB. It appeared that isoflavonoid aglycones or other metabolites, converted from their primary isoflavones during fermentation, might be responsible for the skincare functions found in this study. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrated the low toxicity and the stimulating effects of HQB on HA synthesis, and suggests that HQB may play a promising role in anti-aging cosmetic applications.